Introduction

These pages contain some notes and photos taken in August 2005 during a trek through the remote reserves of Northern Madagascar (see map opposite) . It was arranged by Explore Worldwide, specifically the "Malagasy Lemur Quest" Explore Beyond trip. Many thanks to Shaun Reveley (Ecotour) who led the trip with good humour and great expertise, communicating his infectious enthusiasm and interest in the people, fauna, flora and cuisine of the wonderful red island of Madagascar. Praise & thanks are also due to Angeluc, Jackson, Denatio and the other local guides, cooks & porters.

It was a rare and wonderful experience to see wildlife in natural unspoilt habitats; be bitten by a leech for the first (and hopefully last!) time; be amazed by the diversity and beauty of the rainforest and tsingy environments; be somewhat scared that we were lost in uncharted caves; bathe in shrivellingly-cold, crystal-clear mountain waterfalls; and feel generally content with life looking up at the stars amidst the congenial camaraderie of our group, who were Ali Allsopp, Kay Cox, Hilary Greig, Karena Gomez, Kim Harris, Bethan Ramsey and Sam Roberts.

Antananarivo

Despite a very confusing transit at Paris CDG, arrived, on Air Mad, in Antananarivo, early morning. First and only impression of Tana is that there is not much to see, though to be fair, only had a one hour whistlestop tour of the War Memorial [1], a nearby flower market and a view of Tana [2] from the Queen's Palace.

Then a three-hop flight north to Sambava, with the second hop airport (Maroantsetra) being an interesting if rather risky combination of runway, football pitch, cow pasture and back yard all in simultaneous use.

Sambava to Manantenina

In a rainy Sambava, overnight at the Hotel Las Palmas, by the sea. First taste of Madagascan cuisine - chicken in coconut curry, the ubiquitous mixed veg & rice, three sizes of bananas, Bonbon Anglais lemonade/cream soda and Three Horses Beer.

Piled into a taxi brousse for the 60km drive to Manantenina. Stopped in Sambava town - bustling & busy, with a multitude of roadside stalls, people carrying goods to market, chickens scuttling around, women sorting tomatoes - to stock up on food, Eau Vive water & equipment for the trek.

Drove through dusty towns and villages interspersed with rice paddies, plantations and forest, with the sweet, heady smell of vanilla wafting through the air. At a roadside stop [3], first encounter with madagascan wildlife, a chamaeleon [4,5].

Manantenina to Marojejy National Park

At Manantenina is Marojejy visitor centre for entry & camp site fees, guides, cook and porters. 2.5km walk on dirt road through agricultural landscape [6], crossing two rivers [7], to Mandena village - small wood & rattan houses with vanilla [8], coffee & beans drying outside - to be greeted by free-ranging chickens, geese, ducks & zebu, and happy children shouting "Sali Vazaha".

Further 3km walk on narrowing dirt path and missing plank bridges, with gradually less subsistence agriculture [9] but more secondary forest [10], to Park entrance proper - marked by sign & covered rest area. Very welcome lunch of baguettes, sardines, 'Laughing Cow' cheese and 'Glucose' biscuits. Spotted a dragonfly resting on nearby rock [11].