Marojejy: Mantella Camp 1

3.5km walk from park entrance to camp 1 (Mantella) - gradual climb from 180m to 450m via many ups and fewer downs, through intermittent rain, making the path muddy and treacherous via slippery roots, mossy rocks and wet stepping stones; almost totally enclosed on all sides by lush, green growth; and surrounded by the rich scent of earth and rain - a fantastically alive, primary rainforest.

Wildlife encountered on the way included the first lemur - a White-Fronted Brown [12], tiny frogs [13], a cluster of strangely coloured and shaped beetles [14], big millipedes [15], an incredibly camouflaged leaf-tail gecko [16] and a blue coua [17] with its distinctive call.

• early morning - on a somewhat unsuccessful birdwatching walk we got to the Cascade de Humbert [18].


• nocturnal walk - amidst the sounds of frogs chirping, cicadas chittering and night jars calling - found a frog [19] and a spiral-tailed chamaeleon [20].

Marojejy: Marojejia Camp 2

2km walk from camp 1 (Mantella) to camp 2 (Marojejia) - much steeper path, climbing from 450m to 775m with drier conditions - through some stretches of bamboo forest.

Camp 2 has an impressive view of the misty, mysterious, Marojejy massif, with great little bungalows [21] and a kitchen/dining area clinging vertiginously to a steep-sided, stone slope. Less humid but cooler.

Creatures spotted included a big evil-looking spider [22] which had built a huge web over the pool where we bathed, a small snake [23], an exotic cricket [24] and a curious bamboo lemur [25, 26].

Diurnal rhythm changed to getting up at sunrise, and feeling tired at around 8pm.

Marojejy: Silky Sifaka Lemur

A family of the rare silky sifaka lemurs live in the sheer, densely forested slopes above camp 2. Guides scouted ahead, found them about 15 minutes after group set out but lemurs were on the move. So, to catch up, a mad exhausting scramble ensued up a very steep gradient trail, desperately grabbing at lianas and branches to keep balance and haul yourself up. Luckily they stopped, so quite privileged to see around seven silky sifakas [27-29] grooming and getting ready for afternoon snooze. Also saw them the next morning, even higher up on the slopes, feeding on leaves, and leaping from tree to tree. A cute, fluffy, cuddly-toy appearance though the pink-faced ones are a bit disconcerting.

Walked back to camp 1, where a troop of bamboo lemurs came at dusk, having spent most of the afternoon trying to find them in vain. Also came across a rare short-legged ground roller (bird), a mongoose, and other birds such as the weaver, sunbird and buzzard; and was bitten by a leech and several mosquitoes.

Marojejy: Leaf Tailed Gecko

On a nocturnal walk a few metres from camp 1, angeluc found two leaf-tailed geckos hunting for insects. They were the uncommon uroplatus lineatus species [30-33 ]. Also looking for nocturnal lemurs such as mouse lemurs, which can be spotted by their red eyes in reflected torchlight, however was unsuccesful.

Camp food included freshly-killed chickens (brought in live & tied together), a malagasy cassava/green banana/coconut dish, mung beans, doughnuts, and Gouty biscuits. Breakfast was toasted baguettes spread with strawberry jam and laughing cow cheese.

Camp drinks were the usual Eau Vive and Three Horses Beer, plus a deliciously vanilla pod infused rum which went well with coke, and weak tea or strong coffee with condensed milk, which Karena took to finishing off by the spoonful!

Greatly enjoyed the Marojejy trek - wonderful wildlife, stunning scenery and an excellent experience. Information on the park, camps and maps can be found at www.marojejy.com