Ankarana: Caves

From the Camp des Anglais, set out to explore nearby Andrafiabe (dry) caves. Very extensive system, pitch black with sleeping bats [77]. Hard-packed dirt floor, claustrophobically enclosed by pitted limestone rock walls and ceiling [78], with impressively sculpted stalactites and stalagmites [79, 80] scattered around.

Towards the end are wooded canyons [81] open to the air, which lead to the well-named cathedral cave [82] - an imposing vast space, tens of metres high, with a natural open sky-light. Astounding place with lots of "wow" factor.

Also trekked and waded through the crocodile caves, which are wet (knee-high water) and muddy. Branching off the main cavern are some collapsed sections, where deep-set forests have grown up, totally surroundeded by towering tsingy cliffs [83, 84]. Amazing contrast between stygian gloom of caves, and the blinding light outside [85]. Journey's end is huge collapsed section, densely overgrown (beware the itchy pods!), with further, uncharted caves to get lost in.

Ankarana: Reptiles

• last leaf-tail gecko, uroplatus henkeli, with magnificent markings [86, 87], seen near Petit Tsingy.


• a young croc in the caves [88], crying pitifully on being (briefly) captured.


• drabber chamaeleons [89]


• a 4ft long Madagascar ground boa [90, 91], which slithered very slowly but intently past Kay & Ali's tent on the first morning at the croc caves camp.

Nosy Be

Final few days spent relaxing and recovering on island of Nosy Be at luxurious (compared to camping), synonymous hotel. Region grows cocoa [92], ylang ylang and sugar cane. Scenic panoramic view from Mont Passot over Nosy Be lakes [93].

Dived with Manta Dive Club (www.mantadiveclub.com), solid italian-owned operation though not much english spoken, good visibility, lots of fish [94, 95, 96] and vibrant coral. Two easy dives as inexperienced, max depth 18m, duration 45-50 minutes each.

Good seafood too in local restaurants - smoked fish, crevettes and camarones.

Conclusion

One of the best trips I've ever experienced, especially enjoyable and extremely exciting. Obligatory group photo [97], and one of me [98] in the "lost world" forest (taken by Bethan).

Cameras used were Fujifilm Finepix S7000 and F401 (underwater). Photos mostly cropped for effect, and (over?) post processed in Photoshop CS2. Still stumped by burnt out white skies & clouds.

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